Ueno Park - Tokyo

Ueno Park, once temple grounds of the Tokygawa Shogunate, is now one of the five oldest public parks in Japan.

Within its grounds are many temples, shrines and museums.

Tokyo National Museum is one of the museums. It features many exhibits including, pottery, painting, ceramics from pre-historic to modern times.

Ueno Park is also noted for Sakura.

I arrived in Ueno Park, my first destination in Tokyo, almost accidently having booked a nearby capsule hotel for a few nights.

Entering I was unaware that is it one of the five oldest public parks in Japan. Nor was I aware of its museums, shrines or sakura viewing.

Sakura refers to the flowers of ornamental cherry trees. These trees are not grown for their fruit. Sakura season is from late March to early April.

Sakura at Ueno Park
Sakura at Ueno Park

During the Edo Period (1603-1868) the park was a part of the Kan'ei-ji Temple grounds. Kan'ei-ji was the family temple of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

My exploration of the park was in the spirit of random meandering than a carefully pre-planned expedition.

Toshogu Shrine

First destination of my meanderings was Toshogu Shine. Built in 1627 by Todo Takatora it was dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu. Ieyasu was the founder and first Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate which ruled Japan from the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600 to 1868, the year of the Meiji Restoration.

Approach to the Shrine
Gold foil coated Kammon Gate
Stone Lanterns
Wooden Tablets to Write Wishes
Sakura in Vicinity of the Shrine
Kanei-ji Gojunoto

It was renovated in 1651 by Tokugawa Iemitsu (1604-1651), grandson of Ieyahu and the third Shogun.

Since renovation the shrine has remained intact surviving various fires, earthquakes and wars.

Tokyo National Museum

The part of the Japanese National Museum I visited was the Honkan.

National Art Museum
Construction of the Honkan was commmenced in 1932 on the site previously occcupied by the main hall of Kan'ei-ji Temple destroyed in the Boshin War. It opened in 1939. The Bosin War ended the Tokugawa Shogunate. Inside is art of artifacts from the Jomon period until the Meiji period.
Joman period pottery
Pottery from the Jomon period (14000 to 300 BC). Initially ahunter gatherer culture, they, by the end had settled into agriculture. Their pottery was decorated by pressing cords into the surface of the wet clay. These pottery pieces are considered to be amongst the oldest in existence,
Construction of burial moulds with multiple entrances allowing burial of family members who died at different times became common across Japan. Burial rites developed which involved placing haniwa tomb figurines. Portraying humans and animals they were placed on top the mounds.
From the late Nara(710-794) to the Heian(794-1192) priests appeared who believed that Buddhism and Shinto were the same faith therefore Shinto gods were Buddhist deities. They worshipped in the mountains at what they regarded as sacred sites. Various excavations revealed objects which the priests left as offerings. Eventually this form of worship developed into a folk religion called Shugendo, unique to Japan.
Production of weapons, amours, anchors originally imported from Korea began in Japan around the 5th century. Japanese used gilded bronze rather than gold or silver. Bell shaped, dotaku have been unearthed in the Kinki regoin. Originally imported from China and Korea they became larger, lost their ability to produce sound and where used as ornaments.
From the end of the Heinan period(1192) to the Meiji Restoration (1868) political power was held by the Samurai class. Modelling on court nobility and incorporating elements of Buddhism gave birth to a stoic culture. The samurai's most prized possession were his swords. They carried two, a long sword and a short sword. Image is of samurai armour.
The kosode was a short sleeve garment that which was a direct predecessor of the kimono. Similar to the kimono it had a wider body, longer collar and narrower sleeves. The period of its usage as everyday dress was from the Kamakura period(1185-1333) to the latter Edo period(1603-1868).
Buddhism introduced to Japan in the Nara period become more integrated during the Henian period(794-1192). It gradually spread from the nobility to the common people. Its spread had an influence on Japanese painting and sculpture. Items in the image are from the Heian to Muromachi period(1392-1573)
Woodblock Print
Woodblock Print
Woodblock Print
Woodblock Print
During the Meiji Era(1868-1912) in its attempt to become regarded as a modern nation Japan struggled with the concept of art. Western concepts of art did not include folding screens, objects of everyday life such as ceramics, metalwork or textiles. In addition to embracing western concepts of art the Japanese promoted their indigenous art by internal and external exhibitions.
Ceramics produced in Japan, during the Meiji Period(1868-1912) which were intended for export to Europe. Europe
Sumptuous paintings emerged in the Azuchi-Momoyama period which emphasised the power of the warrior class. A system of appointing painters to the government emerged in the Edo period(1603-1868). The style of these painters, Kano, became he offical standard. However other styles were also active during this period.

Leaving the National Musuem I meandered towards the train station discovering the Bentendo Temple enroute.

Bentendo Temple

Bentendo is an octoganol temple hall located on an island within Shinobazu Pond located in the southern part of Ueno Park.

It is dedicated to the Shinto-Buddhist deity, Benzaiten, goddess of music, arts, knowledge, wealth and water. Because of this the shrine is reverved by artists and musicians seeking blessings.

Bentendo Viewed Across the Lotus Pond
Sakura near Bentendo Temple
Temple Front Entrance
Main Altar

During my visit the Buddhist monks were present

Altar of Bentendo Temple

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