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Located north-east of Bangkok and bounded by Laos to the north and east and by Cambodia to the south, the Isaan is the least visited region of Thailand. An elevated platform of generally poorer soil, this area which some call the 'other Thailand' does not have the lush rainforests or azure seas for which the country is noted. However the area does have many attractions. |
Like many before, I arrive at Nong Khai in Thailand by crossing the Friendship Bridge, over the Mekong, from Laos. Costing $42 million, funded by the Australian Government, the bridge was opened on April 8th, 1994.
Nong Khai located on the southern bank of the Mekong is also known as Naga City, after the mythical serpants which supposely live in the river.
I spent a day in Nong Khai wandering around near the river visiting wats. One was Wat Lam Duang which is located opposite of the Naga Monument. On top is a sitting Buddha protecting the river.
Farther afield in my meanderings I came across a series of bas-reliefs, mounted on a wall, which depicted Isaan rural life.
Leaving Nong Khai I did not join the masses who boarded the night train heading for Bangkok. I have previously done that journey. This time, I catch the bus to Khon Kaen, because this time the plan is to see some of the Isaan.
Khon Kaen is one of the major four cities of the Isaan. The other three being, Nakhon Ratchasima(Korat), Udon Thani and Ubon Ratchathani. It has modern shopping centers and a large University. It is also where for the first time, and the last time, I experienced eating chicken feet. Yuck!!
Amongst it attractions is a National Museum and a number of wats in the vicinity of the large lake, Kaen Nakhon.
The most iconic of these wats is Wat Nong Waeng with its nine-storied chedi, Phra Mahathat Kaen Nakhon. A golden spire and a ceremonial parasol adorn the chedi top. The public can access, via a stair case, all nine levels. Each level offered a 360 degree view of Khon Kaen.
My approach was to enjoy the exhibits and views on each floor during the ascension, ie any excuse for a rest.
When I had finished admiring the view from the top story of the pagoda, I quickly decended and left walking north near the lake shore until I came across a large standing Buddha statue.
Guan Yin is a Bodhisattva from Mahayana Buddism. She is the Bodhisattva of mercy, compassion,, kindness and love. A Bodhisattva is one who has achieved enlightment but foregoes nirvana to stay and help the rest of us achieve enlightment.
Statues representing Mahayana Buddism are not common in Thailand because it is Theravarda Buddhism that is generally practiced.
Another Wat of interst was Wat Pho Non Than, located close to Guan Yin. Its Buddhist meditation center is surrounded by paintings and carvings of trees and animals depicting a rain forest. Maybe to create the idea of going into the forest to meditate.
Forest meditation is practised in other parts of the Isaan. Khon Kaen is as far removed from rainforest you can be and still be in Thailand.
Phimai, a small town located 140kms due south of Khon Kaen, is a little awkard to reach from Khon Kaen. One method is to take a bus to Korat, and then take another bus back to Phimai. The second, is to take the bus to Korat, but get off at the Phimai turn off and hopefully catch a songthaew to Phimai. The third is to arrange private transport. I have used the first two methods. The first, on this my first visit, the second when I returned for the Phimai Festival.
Phimai's premier attraction is the Phimai Historical Park which was set up to protect Prasat Hin Phimai, a Khymer temple built in the reign of Suryavaraman I (1006-50). Originally a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, is was rededicated as a Mahayana Buddhist temple at the end of the 12th century.
I returned later for the Phimai Festival.
Ubon Ratchathani is on the Mun(Moon) River about 45 kilometers from the Laotian border where the Mun flows into the Mekong. It is a city many tourists past through on their way to southern Laos.
Ubon's main claim to fame is the Candle Festival held in July. The festival is held over two days. The first is a Buddhist holiday which commerates the first sermon of Buddha. The second, the next day, marks the start of the Buddhist Lent. The Lent is a three month period, in the rainy season, when the monks retreat into the monasteries for study and meditation.
The first day is spent in Thung Sri Mueang, Ubon's main park, where huge wax candles, only made days before, are decorated and exhibited in the evening. The second day, starting from the nearby Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram, floats carrying the candles are paraded through the city.
A permanent display of a float in Thung Sri Mueang gives an idea of the design and size of the paraded floats.
Anyone who has been to Chiang Mai or Pattaya is familiar with the songthaew. A utility vehicle with two parallel benches in the back used to transport passengers. The songthaews in central part of Chiang Mai are all red. The songthaews in Khon Kaen and Ubon, and maybe other Isaan cities, are different colours, eg red, green, yellow, with each colour referring to a specific route which is marked on a map.
Otherwise, the procedure is the same, flag down the songthaew, get on, ring the bell when you want to get off and pay the driver.
Ubon has a number of Wats and a National Museum. One Wat a bit different from the rest is Wat Su Phatthanaram Worawihan which faces the Mun River. Coloured white, its architecture looks like a combination of Thai and European styles.
It seems to me that the gates to the Isaan Wats are a lighter structure than elsewhere in Thailand.
The last town I visit in the Isaan, during this trip, was Roi Et. I was intially attracted by its 59.2 meter tall standing Buddha, Phra Phuttha Rattana Mongkhon Mahamuni. Located in Wat Bhurapha Piram, it is the tallest standing Buddha in Thailand.
I shall not dwell on it here as I have a page devoted to Roi Et.
Travelling from Nong Khai to Khon Kaen onwards to Phimai, Ubon and Roi Et the country is flat. The trees there are the size of large bushes. In the flat paddy fields are many water buffalo, sometimes knee deep in mud. This is not the Thailand of azure beaches or lush rain forest. The attractions in this area, sometimes known as the other Thailand, are not immediately obvious, but they are there.
