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I took a day trip from Dublin, Ireland, which had two destinations, the Monastery of Glendalough and the town of Kilkenny. Glendalough means the valley of two lakes. It is a glacial valley located in Wicklow, south of Dublin. An area of natural beauty, it was also the site of a monastic city. The name Kilkenny comes from Irish, Cill Chainnigh, meaning Church of Cainnech, and has nothing to do with the killing of some poor chap named Kenny. |
The monastic settlement of Glendalough was founded by St Kevin in the 6th century. It thrived as a monastic city until 1214 when the dioceses of Glendalough and Dublin united. Unification caused Glendalough's decline in importance. In 1398 it was destroyed by English forces. Most of the buildings, which date from the 10th to 12th centuries, are ruins. However there are a few structures still intact.
We entered through the gateway. It has two granite arches and in times past it may have had a timber roof.
In the west wall of the gateway is a cross-inscribed stone which marks the boundary of an area of refuge.
Once through the Gateway, the first object that caught my eye was the round tower.
Built from mica-slate and granite more than a 1000 years ago it is 30.48 meters high with an entrance 3.5 meters above the ground. Originally having six timber floors connected by ladders, the floors above entrance level were lit by small windows. The top floor has four windows which face in cardinal compass directions. It was used as a bell tower, beacon for pilgrims, look-out tower, grain storage and in times of conflict, a refuge. When taking refuge the ladder would be pulled inside. The conicial roof was built in 1876 to replace the previous roof which had been destroyed by lightning.
St Kevin's Church, dates from the 12th century. It is known as St Kevin's Kitchen because the three story high bell tower, located on the west end, resembles a chimney. However no meals were cooked there. Like the Round Tower it has a conical top and the four top windows face the cardinal directions. Facing in an east-west direction are the two windows below.
Architecturally the church is an example of combining a circular bell tower to a rectangular building.
This church originally only had a nave. The steep roof, made of over-lapping stones, is supported internally by a semi-circular vault. Church entrance is at the west end and there is a small round-headed window in the east gable. A chancel and sacristy were added later. Access to the croft or roof chamber was through a rectangular opening towards the western end of the vault. The church also had a timber first floor.
In the grounds is a cemetery with many celtic crosses.
Many of the pre-Christian pagans were sun worshippers. The circle on the celtic cross represents the sun. The idea was to introduce Christianity by combining its beliefs with pre-existing pagan beliefs.
During my brief vist I had a quick look at Kilkenny Castle and visited St Canice's Cathedral and St Mary's Cathedral.
Kilkenny Castle was a Norman castle initially built in 1195. The first stone castle was completed in 1260. It was square with four rounded towers. Three still survive.
Unfortunately available time did not allow for a visit of the interior.
St Canice's cathedral was built between 1202 and 1285 on the site of earlier churches. It was restored between 1844 and 1867 without altering its medieval character.
Next to it stands a 9th-century, hundred feet high, Celtic round tower. In the past it may have served as a refuge or/and a watchtower.
During the Reformation the cathedral was transferred to the Church of Ireland.
After the reformation most Irish retained their Catholic faith. For them the Cathedral of St Mary's was built between 1843 and 1857.
The tour was an interesting day's trip out of Dublin. However, I think Kilkenny is worth a visit of at least two full days.