I arrived in the fishing port
of Mokpo, on Korea's south-west coast, not knowing what to
expect.
I knew it was famous for sliced
octopus. Still living, they are sliced into pieces and
immediately served. The thought of still functioning
suckers attaching themselves to my throat did not
appeal.
Apart from culinary delights, other
attractions of Mokpo include the Gatbawi, its excellent
National Reseach Institute of Maritime Museum and Yudalsan
Mountain.
Fishing boats in
Mokpo
I spent my first day in the vicinity of the Gatbawi and the
National Reseach Institute of Maritime Museum. The area is near
the bank of the Yeongsan River near where it enters into the
sea.
Gatbawi
Gatbawi is two rocks, one eight metres high, the other six
metres high, that look like two men wearing Satgat (conical
bamboo rain-hats). You can only fully see them from the ocean
side. It was created by the natural weathering of boulders,
which are tuff and sedimentary rocks, formed by the
accumulations of volcanic ash and eroded by salt water waves.
Path to GatbawiGatbawi
National Maritime Museum
The National Maritime Museum opened in 1994. Its exhibits are
housed in a two-story building containing four man exhibit halls.
Within the halls are artifacts from the Sinan shipwreck, models
and photos of traditional Korean boats and exhibits giving some
idea of life in a traditional Korean fishing village.
In 1323 a merchant ahip
disappeared on route from China to Japan. In August 1975 pieces
of Chinese ceramics were discoverd by a fisherman leading to the
ship's discovery. It was called the Sinan shipwreck after the
village near where it was found. The site was excavated from
1976 to 1984.Most of the Sinan's
cargo consisted of 26,000 pieces of Chinese ceramics. Most
were Yuan style but some from the Song style. Yuan was from
the late 13th to the early 14th century. Seven pieces of
Goryeo celadon and two pieces from the Seto kiln in Japan are
also in the collection.Eight million
Chinese coins weighing 28 tons were on the Sinan. They date
from the Xin Dynasty(9-23AD) to the Yuan
Dynasty(1271-1368AD). Chinese coins were exported to Korea,
Japan and Vietnam. From the 12th to 15th century huge
numbers of Chinese coins were in circulation in
Japan.The Sinan was a wooden
vessel weighing 260tons. Thirty-four meters in length, it could
carry up to 200 passengers. Of V-shapped cross-section, the bow
and stern were raised. A streamlined keel gave the ship maximum
speed in open waters. Twenty-eight tons of coins were evenly
laid out at the bottom of the ship to serve as
ballast.Most of the cargo in the Sinan ship were
carefully packed in square and cylindrical wooden boxes
for safe transportation. Ceramics were tied with straps
and put inside the box with straw or other plant material
for protection. Spices such as cinnamon, lychee, ginger
were also found in the shipwreck.Amongst the goods in the Sinan shipwreak were a
100 medieval kitchen ultensils including frying pans, bronze
pots, mortars, ladels, jars, funnels and trays. A few may
have been used in the gallery but most are believed to have
been cargo.Byeongnando was a port located downstream of
the Yeseong River in Kaepung County, Hwanghae Province
druing the Goryeo Dynasty. A deep river allowed the port
to accomodate ships of many sizes. Situated near the
contemporary capital, Gaegyoeng, it became the hub of
country's international trade.The
two main types of ships built in the Goryeo period
(918-1392) were the Gwaseon (spear vessel) which was used
to spear Japanese pirate and the Daenuseon, a large
military vessel.Several Goryeo ships have been discovered
along the eastern and southern coast of the peninsula.
Dating from the 11th to 13th century they allow the
study of Goryeo Dynasty shipbuiding technology.
Turtle ships were used by the Korean
Joseon Navy along the panokseon warship to
successsfully fight the Japanese navy. They got
their name from the spiked iron top covering which
resembled a turtle shell. Its purpose was to
discourage boarding.Pankoseaon was the main class of
warship during the Joseon Dynasty. It was
instrumental in victories over the numerically
superior Japanese Navy during the Imijin War. The
design survived until the later periods of the
Joseon when the Navy Headquarters of the Three
Provinces and other navy headquarters and barracks
across the nation were dismantled. Stow
net fishing boats were remodeled during the Japanese colonial
era. Being a strong resemblance to traditional Korean boats
using croaker fishing nets these boats were used along the
west coast and were frequently employed in shrimping and
yellow corvina hunting. It was with
underwater excavation in the waters off Sinan that Korean
underwater archaeology began. Treasure hunters soon came and
pillaged the site. Thankfully most of the cultural heritage
that had been taken was retrieved. Some of the stolen pieces
were smuggled overseas.
Returning from the Maritime Museum I spent the evening around
the shoreline where I came across men fishing for squid. Very
simple, use the light to attract, then scoop them up using a
small hand net.
Fishing for Squid
Yudalsan Mountain
Yudalsan Mountain at 228 metres is not high. However because
of its position its height is sufficent to allow pleasant views
of the city of Mokpo and several islands dotted in the Dadohae
Sea. There are many places to visit in the associated park
including manicured gardens and several shrines. Many of the
attractions are connected by stairs and paved paths.
Mokposisa
pavilionYudalsan
MountainYudalsan
NojeokbongGardensUp
to PavilionOne of Many PathsCable Car
Top Yuseonggak
The Mokpo Dancing Fountain is a musical fountain. One-hundred
and fifty metres in length it can shoot water up to 70metres.
Shows are presented every night except Monday, when it is closed
for maintainence. Just my luck, I suppose!
