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Most Korean temples, for example Shinhenugsa Temple, are located in the mountains. Haedong Yonggungsa Temple is one of the few located by the sea. In the city of Busan, is it easily reached by catching Bus 181 from Haeundae railway station. Originally built in 1376, during the Goryeo Dynasty (918 - 1392), it was severely damaged by fire during the Japanese invasions (1592 - 98) and then neglected for centuries. Restoration commenced in the 1930s. The temple was given its current name, Haedong Yonggungsa, in 1974. |
Leaving the bus and following the signs leads me to a path which is lined on one side by 12 zodiac creatures.
Following the Zodiac creature lined path and climbing the prerequisite stairs leads me to a small observation platform. From here I can see an arched bridge, the Main Sanctuary (Daengjeon), a 3-storied pagoda in front of it, and higher, towards the back, a large standing Buddha.
Perhaps my timing is fortunate as the complex is not too crowded with visitors.
Crossing the arch-bridge and looking down is a standing Buddha in what appears to be the highest of three small ponds. Above are a group of what appears to be monks.
A litter farther, and climbing a few more stairs places me in front of the Daengjeon. During its reconstruction, in 1970, the exterior colour scheme was given meticulous attention.
Inside the Daengjeon is a highly decorated altar with a golden Buddha flanked on either side by two golden Bodhisattvas.
Outside, to the left of the Daengjeon, unseen from the observation platform, is a large golden sitting fat Buhddha. The fat Buddha, often laughing depicts a plentitude of ones wishes for wealth, happiness, success or satisfaction.
Higher, the highest point in the temple complex, is a large standing Buddha, perhaps the most important Buddha in this complex, the Seawater Great Goddess of Mercy (Haesu Gwaneum Daebul).
Now at the highest point gazing out to the sea the view is unbounded, the blue of the water merging with the lighter, almost white, blue of the sky. Re-aligning my gaze back to the temple complex my eyes focus on another large golden seating Buddha. Not a fat one this time, but one wearing a Korean hat (gat). Buddha's wearing hats are healing Buddha's which are believed to cure diseases.
Coming down, but still looking out towards the sea, a series of rock cairns come morely sharply into focus. The rocks are neatly stacked into the shapes of chedi or prangs.
A small staircase descends from the floor into a small chamber where highly decorated candles are lit. Lighting of candles is also a Christian ritual.
Throughout the temple complex there a many minor statues of Buddha. Catching my attention was a set of five recessed in a rock, Buddhas of academic study. Academic study, now there is an activity that I haven't participitated in for a few decades. I will get back into it real soon. Perhaps not!
Leaving the Academic Buddhas and with them my plans of future academic study I am soon back on the path of the Zodiac creatures which are now guiding me back to the bus stop. On the opposite side of the path is a small standing fat Buddha.
People rub its tummy for good luck.
